I was in the Kabukicho Sega at kicking out time (1am). Everyone dutifully cleared off when they heard Auld Lang Syne but I hung around.

Taiko no Tatsujin: very Japanese but known out West after its PS2 dip in 2004.

The alleys are black and muggy with old incandescent lights steaming away the summer. Insects chirp quietly.

There’s one game genre you can always depend on in Tokyo.

There’s energy in the air but what’s it for?

Alive in Tokyo’s arcades is the subtle and dignified art of Japanese taiko drumming (to the Super Mario Bros. theme tune).